Farthingales

Part of speech: noun

Definitions

  1. A type of supportive garment structure worn beneath skirts to shape and expand them, often associated with fashion from the 16th to the 17th centuries
  2. An undergarment designed to create a bell-like silhouette, typically used in historical European dress to enhance the form of women's skirts
  3. A rigid framework or hoop worn under dresses to provide volume and support, reflecting the aesthetic trends of certain historical periods in clothing design

Etymology: The term "farthingales" refers to a historical garment structure used primarily in the 16th and 17th centuries to support the skirts of women's dresses, giving them a distinctive bell shape. The word itself derives from the Spanish "farthingale," which is believed to have come from the phrase "varding gala," referring to a petticoat or skirt support. This Spanish term likely evolved from the Old French "varde," meaning "a frame," which points to the structural function these garments served. The first recorded use of "farthingale" in English dates back to around the late 15th century. During this period, the fashion in Europe was heavily influenced by royal courts, especially those in Spain and France. The farthingale became particularly popular in English fashion during the reign of Queen Elizabeth I, who was known for her elaborate and voluminous gowns. The introduction of this garment allowed for a striking silhouette, enhancing the appearance of the waist and creating a dramatic effect that was fashionable among the nobility. As fashion evolved, so did the meaning and usage of the term. Initially, a farthingale referred specifically to the structure itself—a hoop skirt made of whalebone or reeds. Over time, it came to represent not just the physical garment, but also the elaborate style and social status it signified. The farthingale was emblematic of the rigid social hierarchies of the time, as the size and extravagance of one's skirt often indicated wealth and rank. While the farthingale eventually fell out of fashion in the 18th century, its legacy remains in the historical understanding of women's clothing and the ways in which garments can define social roles and identities. The term lingers in fashion history and serves as a reminder of the intricate relationship between clothing and cultural expression.